Good to hear! It's a bit of a long list but nothing hugely complicated. All relatively inexpensive but it adds up.
- 7x M8 35mm bolts
to attach the inlet to the head (original bolts will be too long). I used stainless steel flange head bolts, but you could use allen/cap head or grade 8 steel bolts, whatever you want just no longer than 35mm.
- 5mm Ferriday thermal inlet gasket
(Matt at Fusion Fabs supplied mine at the time)
For the air filter
the easiest way is fit it straight onto the TB with a jubilee due to the lack of space
The K+N RC-5134 from the Mountune CAIS fits (link)
I have the Ram Air CC-115 but it needs to be oiled and some people have complained it lets in dust so your call on that one (link)
Alternatively you could relocate the battery which would open up more filter options.
For the PCV
some 16mm ID hose either to a catch can or into the manifold.
The fitting for the PCV is an AN6, either for a hose fitting or a blanking plug as I have done with the vapours venting to atmosphere (link)
(if you blank it off and don't use the PCV you need to take the valve out of the orange PCV valve on the block by sawing the barbed end off to take the spring out) I have these 2x oil breathers with 16mm ID (link)
and some hose so that they don't vent close to the cabin air vents.
Wood be a good time to clean the oil seperator on the block at this time and check its not gunked up. I didn't at the time but wish I had done for peace of mind, but you'd need a new gasket if you did this.
Advisable is an uprated lower gearbox mount
to prevent the inlet hitting the bonnet latch under load.
I used the vibra-technics road mount. You need to re-use the black bracket from the standard mount when you do this as they don't come with the black bracket. (There are a lot of brands available - fyi the mk7 ST ones also fit the mk6)
The brake servo and fuel vapour EVAP lines
are the threaded fittings two on top (either way around, whichever works best).
When I did mine I replaced the plastic lines with hose but it's possible to keep the plastic ones but I'm not sure what fittings are required to do that. Matt from Fusion Fabs may be able to advise as presumably these are a common ancillary for inlets.
Changing the brake vac line was a big faff so I would recommend leaving the standard plastic line if possible. The EVAP line was relatively easy. Here is what I used;
AN6 female 8mm Barb 45 degree fitting for the fuel vapour line (link)
and 8mm ID J30R6 fuel hose (1 metre) and 2 jubilees.
AN6 female 10mm Barb 45 degree fitting for brake servo vac line (link)
and 10mm ID silicone hose (I think 2 metres was enough) and 2 jubilees.Other miscellaneous items
- Inlet gasket sealant (eg Hylomar Blue)
- Bolt to fit the MAP sensor. Can't remember the size of bolt (maybe m6) but I ended up using the one from the dipstick tube at the time so it's the same size as that.
- You also need make a simple bracket to support the dipstick tube and the dipstick tube will need bending slightly as with the other aftermarket manifolds.
- Also I wrapped all threaded fittings with plumber's PTFE tape to ensure a good seal and prevent vacuum leaks, tried not to overtighten any of the fittings.
- Swirl flap electrical connector no longer needed so wrap it in some black tape
most have used the Dreamscience HyperR tweaked on the DS dyno, but you could go with a good custom mappers such as Jamsport. If you already have performance cams you won't need a remap immediately but it's advisable to go to a good rolling road to have the fuelling checked to ensure there's no lean spots.Manifold removal
instructions are here
It isn't that hard, just a little time consuming and needs some patience.
You ideally need a 3/8" or 1/4" socket set with extensions and swivel joints to remove the standard inlet which is the biggest part of the job. Bonnet latch needs to come off too I think and the fuel rail needs loosening to give a bit of slack.
I'd be happy to help you fit for a few beers but I'm up north.