I am about ready to pull the trigger on an FF Inlet for my ST150 and later would follow the stage 2 Newman cams + map.

I have read just about every thread on various sites regarding this upgrade and asked around for information on the other parts that I would need to get this going. The feed back suggested there was a "shopping list of parts" on this forum? I can't find it and not for the want in trying....

So I would be very grateful if any of you guys that have completed this mod could reply with an idiots guide parts list and where to buy it all from.

Can you also tell me what I do with the PCV hose after the new intake is fitted?

I don't have EGR so no worries on that one or?

I have seen photos of various members cars some with new hoses and some with the original left on what's the advantages/disadvantages replacing or leaving?

There is advice to change an engine mount, what did you all go with for this?

pro's/cons of 55 - 60 throttle body?

Best air filter to fit the limited space?

If I've missed anything let me know?

and finally….. Once I have purchased all this lovely stuff would one of you come round, fit it all for me GRATIS whilst I talk crap and make tea???
TIA Gary

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Good to hear! It's a bit of a long list but nothing hugely complicated. All relatively inexpensive but it adds up.

- 7x M8 35mm bolts to attach the inlet to the head (original bolts will be too long). I used stainless steel flange head bolts, but you could use allen/cap head or grade 8 steel bolts, whatever you want just no longer than 35mm.
- 5mm Ferriday thermal inlet gasket (Matt at Fusion Fabs supplied mine at the time)

For the air filter the easiest way is fit it straight onto the TB with a jubilee due to the lack of space
The K+N RC-5134 from the Mountune CAIS fits (link)
I have the Ram Air CC-115 but it needs to be oiled and some people have complained it lets in dust so your call on that one (link))
Alternatively you could relocate the battery which would open up more filter options.

For the PCV some 16mm ID hose either to a catch can or into the manifold.
The fitting for the PCV is an AN6, either for a hose fitting or a blanking plug as I have done with the vapours venting to atmosphere (link) (if you blank it off and don't use the PCV you need to take the valve out of the orange PCV valve on the block by sawing the barbed end off to take the spring out) I have these 2x oil breathers with 16mm ID (link) and some hose so that they don't vent close to the cabin air vents.
Wood be a good time to clean the oil seperator on the block at this time and check its not gunked up. I didn't at the time but wish I had done for peace of mind, but you'd need a new gasket if you did this.

Advisable is an uprated lower gearbox mount to prevent the inlet hitting the bonnet latch under load.
I used the vibra-technics road mount. You need to re-use the black bracket from the standard mount when you do this as they don't come with the black bracket. (There are a lot of brands available - fyi the mk7 ST ones also fit the mk6)

The brake servo and fuel vapour EVAP lines are the threaded fittings two on top (either way around, whichever works best).
When I did mine I replaced the plastic lines with hose but it's possible to keep the plastic ones but I'm not sure what fittings are required to do that. Matt from Fusion Fabs may be able to advise as presumably these are a common ancillary for inlets.

Changing the brake vac line was a big faff so I would recommend leaving the standard plastic line if possible. The EVAP line was relatively easy. Here is what I used;
AN6 female 8mm Barb 45 degree fitting for the fuel vapour line (link) and 8mm ID J30R6 fuel hose (1 metre) and 2 jubilees.
AN6 female 10mm Barb 45 degree fitting for brake servo vac line (link) and 10mm ID silicone hose (I think 2 metres was enough) and 2 jubilees.

Other miscellaneous items
- Inlet gasket sealant (eg Hylomar Blue)
- Bolt to fit the MAP sensor. Can't remember the size of bolt (maybe m6) but I ended up using the one from the dipstick tube at the time so it's the same size as that.
- You also need make a simple bracket to support the dipstick tube and the dipstick tube will need bending slightly as with the other aftermarket manifolds.
- Also I wrapped all threaded fittings with plumber's PTFE tape to ensure a good seal and prevent vacuum leaks, tried not to overtighten any of the fittings.
- Swirl flap electrical connector no longer needed so wrap it in some black tape

For mapping most have used the Dreamscience HyperR tweaked on the DS dyno, but you could go with a good custom mappers such as Jamsport. If you already have performance cams you won't need a remap immediately but it's advisable to go to a good rolling road to have the fuelling checked to ensure there's no lean spots.

Manifold removal instructions are here
It isn't that hard, just a little time consuming and needs some patience.
You ideally need a 3/8" or 1/4" socket set with extensions and swivel joints to remove the standard inlet which is the biggest part of the job. Bonnet latch needs to come off too I think and the fuel rail needs loosening to give a bit of slack.
I'd be happy to help you fit for a few beers but I'm up north.

Great explanation about the different components,
Only 1 question, i my self have a 2005 prefacelift model. And i am wondering how does this work with the EGR valve?
What need to be done with this?

Install a blind in between the head and the valve and leave the connector / valve?

Or

Delete it complete and replace with a plate?

Does one of the above give MIL/ Engine problems and how can it be fixed?

Hope someone can give me an answer too this, i have seen pictures from engines with EGR with FF inlets installed, so i think should be possible.
I have mailed fusionfab them self and also tried the dutch fiestaclub and even focusclub, but till now none can give me an answer.

Before buying and shipping it too the netherlands, want too know that i will work

I did both.

When I first fitted the manifold I removed the pipe that comes out of the head into the manifold and blanked it with an M15 sump plug.

As far as I know this shouldn't throw any codes but I had already had a remap and PCM update, which I think deletes the egr from the map.

Then later I removed the valve and fitted a blanking plate, but really there wasnt any need. There is still a coolant hose hanging that used to connect to the EGR which I just plugged with a bolt in the end and a cable tie.

The connector is also still there just protected from the elements with loom tape and tucked out of view. To remove it I'd just need a hose from a later car but I despise removing and fitting those OEM hose clamps so decided not to bother and save my knuckles.

I would recommend just blanking the outlet in the head with a sump plug and leave the rest unless it bothers you.

If you're worried about error codes, a simple test is unplug the EGR before you next start the car and then you'll know if it needs mapping out or not. If it does give an error you might have to clear the code after so get a bluetooth OBD reader and use the torque lite app.

Thank you, i hoped it would be as simpele as that.

Good too hear it should be possible. Will try this test. (Ask my Neighbour because i am at sea)
I have a reader and the forscan tool so that should be oke.

I printed your list and start ordering parts.
1 thing came in to mind. The basket a ferriday 5mm gasket? The 1 mm inlet manifold gasketfrom DanST engineering is not a option?

Yes, its the thick one, 5mm.
Being aluminium it needs every bit of help to stay cool.